Newfoundland's Marble Mountain: An Unconventional Winter Playground!
By: Frederick Wallace
At the summit, you are drawn to three captivating elements: the Gulf of St. Lawrence which opens up into the vast Atlantic Ocean, the meandering Humber River, and the iconic Governor’s Balls – the latter are two colossal glacial erratics bestowed by retreating glaciers. These remarkable rocks rival the unforgettable trail names that descend from the iconic Marble Mountain, creating an indelible experience for every ski enthusiast. Marble is unlike any mountain you have skied before.
Size isn’t everything, and Marble proves it. Sure, it may not be the biggest, but what it lacks in sheer acreage, it more than makes up for in character and charm. With an exquisite blend of intermediate and expert terrain, Marble is not your run-of-the-mill ski destination. Picture this: 519 meters of vertical drop, 230 acres of skiable terrain, and an annual blanket of almost five meters of prime Newfoundland and Labrador powder. It’s not just about the numbers; Marble offers a unique and unforgettable skiing experience. The 47 distinct trails weave a narrative of diversity and charm, making each run a story worth remembering. Marble Mountain isn’t just a ski resort; it’s a revelation – where every turn is an editorial in adventure and style.
In a period when too many resorts have succumbed to cookie-cutter experiences, Marble’s many distinct offerings doesn’t include five-star hotel brands but offer clear-cut warm and gracious hospitality from the many Newfies and Newfoundlandlers you’ll meet along the way! Richard Wells, General Manager of Marble, is leading a new team determined to improve the destination experience and put this place on the map.
”We are all locals here and proud of what we have to offer, and what we have here is unique.This is a skier’s mountain,’’ says Wells passionately, who began working at Marble as ski patroller almost two decades ago. The destination has become year-round in the past year and many culinary delights have been added including a number of special events. ”Trying to make things different and unique is one of our core values, and everyone here says it’s one of the best experiences,” he adds.
With only a 4.5-hour difference from the Central European time zone, adjusting to the travel is relatively easy. Same-day travel from the UK is possible in both directions, flying Air Canada via London to Halifax and onto Deer Lake. The resort is about 30 minutes from the airport. Best of all, the vacation has plenty of value here and you won’t leave this place with a burning hole in your pocket!
The area, up until 1921, was industrial primarily exploited for natural resources such as lumber and limestone quarries, and the mountain itself began its new vocation in 1961. From the parking lot, the hills look unassuming and basic. However going up the chair it only takes a few seconds to conclude this mountain is more technical with each run being carved following the mountain line to give an extra burst of excitement. The bountiful natural snow base will provide a practical ice-free day along with a vast array of intermediate and expert runs that you won’t likely to forget such as ‘Corkscrew,’ ‘Blow Me Down,’ ‘Autobahn’ all having a special twist or two of their own!
The lineup may be only a few minutes on the busiest of weekends. The high-speed quad ride up is a mere seven minutes with access to the entire mountain. There’s only one green run and the rest are all intermediate and expert which all in all means excellent ‘‘POW-Days’ when the snow lands! Surprisingly, the snow is quite dry given the mountain’s sea level elevation.
If the adventure seeker in you leaves you reeling for more, fantastic winter expeditions, which are well-suited, await all levels of skiers. Besides the skiing at Marble Mountain, the bountiful paradise of the Appalachian Mountain ridge offers a paradise and backdrop for Alpine, Nordic, off-piste and snowshoe skiing, without the crowds!
With snow-draped fjords that let you ski to the sea, spacious glades and wide open alpine bowls, Gros Morne offers some of the best backcountry skiing on the eastern half of the continent. The treeless Tablelands region recalls the high alpine terrain of the Rockies or Alps but with an ocean view.
Named after Gros Morne Mountain, the second-highest peak on the island and part of the Long Range Mountains, Mantle Board Shoppe owner and tour operator Ryan Crocker have been offering sled skiing tours pulling skiers with snowmobiles to the surrounding TableLands and mountains for decades.
”When you come here and experience our powder and snow conditions, it is an unparalleled sight,’’ he says off the back of his snowmobile at the top of this pristine sunny day. ”Look down below, not a ski track and pristine runs… this is what you get when you come up here.” Most of the guides are locals and have deep-rooted connections with the local culture and history of the island.
Newfoundland is the island in the Atlantic that enchanted former President George H.W. Bush when he initially came on a fishing expedition, and its triangular shape, along with its many fjords and inlets, make it unique. It is the easternmost island of Canada, which King Henry VII of England referred to as “Newfoundland” after the explorations of the English navigator John Cabot in the service of the English Crown in 1497. As it was more than 500 years ago, Newfoundland remains a remote island, seemingly uninhabited and undiscovered. Canadians themselves know little about it. Together with the mainland territory of Labrador, they formed the last province to join the Canadian Confederation in 1949. With an area of 111 million square kilometres, it has about 500,000 inhabitants, who win over tourists with their warmth. This event put them on the map when 38 flights with seven thousand passengers were forced to land in Gander after the attack on the Twin Towers in 2001 after the US closed off the airspace.
Winter tourism is a diamond in the rough in Newfoundland and Labrador, but observing the locals and their energy and the ideas propelling this new push, you’ll want to discover this place before mass tourism sets in. There are plenty of people to meet and adventures to do. It’s down-home, warm, friendly and comes at a very fraction of the cost, serving up an experience that will stay etched in your memories for some time!
Because you are skiing at sea level, go later in the season, mid-March, to very early April, when the snowfall is abundant. If you time things around St. Patrick’s Day, you won’t miss the festivities or the unforgettable experience of connecting with the many locals and the good humour they are known for as you merrily ‘screech in’ and become an honourary Newfoundlander!
More Info
Where to Stay
Parks Canada BackCountry Mountain information
Pictured top: View of Marble Mountain from the Humber River. Photo : Scott Ronin, courtesy of Marble Mountain